Reluctant Irishman

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Bruges's lesser-known cousin

Nowadays, most people are aware of the beauty and historical significance of Bruges (or Brugge, to give it it's Flemish name); that magnificent hanseatic town in Belgium which is a world heritage site and the setting for Martin McDonagh's blackly comic film.

Not quite so many people are aware that another Flemish town, een nearer to brussles, is almost as pretty and well-preserved, as well as being much more lively and less touristy.

Ghent (Gent in Flemish, Gand in French) was also a Hanseatic town and is similar to it's better-known cousin in many respects; it has the trademark Flemish/ Dutch-style houses with the forward-facing gables, as well as lots of churches and beautiful squares and a few canals. Unlike Bruges, it has an imposing castle pretty much at the heart of the town (The Gravensteen castle) and a very lively shopping area, as well as a red light district.

In fact, up until the 13th century, it was bigger than any other Euroean city except Paris - i.e. bigger than London or Rome. It's wool industry was so highly developed that it had to import wool from as far away as England and Scotland. the English connection is reinforced by the city being the birthplace of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster and younger brother of the Black Prince (probably best remembered through his famous "scepter'd isle" deathbed speech in Shakepeare's Richard II).

There is easily as much to see there as in Bruges - that is, if you can steal yourself away from tasting the excellent beer or eating local flemish delicacies (my favourties are the shrimp croquettes or garnalankroketjes).

The Cathedral of Saint Bavo (Sint Baafs) and the church of Saint Michael are probably the highlights among the churches, although it's the belfry tower that dominates the skyline. And if you do go to the cathedral, the alterpiece known as The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by Hubert and Jan van Eyck is a must-see (Jan is famous for his beautiful painting, The Arnolfini Marriage, which also illistrates his mastery of perspective and his near-photographic style).

And can you do canal rides, like in Bruges, you ask? Well, of course you can!

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